syria

this information comes from a visit to the country in august 2004. things might have changed since then. these are my personal impressions and it's well possible that other travellers will not share my views.

cairo, egypt :rumors had it that the syrian embassy in cairo only issued visas to egyptian nationals. this has not been the case when i was there. the visa was issued within 24 hours without any problems. it cost 140 egyptian pounds, two photographs and a letter of recommendation from your embassy. it's advisable to state on the application form that you have not visited the 'occupied palestinian territories'

at the border, coming from lebanon: officially you can only get a visa at the border if you are returning to syria (if you have entered lebanon from syria). it costs US$ 20.--
(i know people who have managed to get it, entering lebanon by boat. in any case it's quite likely that you can bribe your way through - if not you're planted as there is no syrian representation in lebanon...).

getting in and out

from jordan (amman - damascus): the procedures at the border were quick and easy. i paid a total of 29 usd for insurance and road tax for one month. they make you change us dollars for a rather unfavorable rate, claiming that you have to pay in dollars - probably a way for the government to get their hands on dollars.

from lebanon (coastal road): the officials on both sides might try to overcharge you. otherwise the procedures are quite easy and won't take more than one hour for both sides together. you can get a syrian visa at the border (US$ 20.--), but only if you have entered lebanon from syria (i am quite sure, however, that you could bribe your way to a completely new visa).
if you have already been to syria before than your insurance policy might still be valid. i paid another US$ 7.-- for road tax.
again, for all charges, you have ot change US$ at the bank and provide that receipt for prove.

to lebanon (damascus - beirut): i had to pay 200 syrian pound exit tax. otherwise it took no time to leave syria.

to turkey (coastal road): after driving on a great wide road you suddenly have to find yourself through all kinds of smaller and very small roads until you eventually end up on the main road to the border (i might have taken a worng turn somwhere but many people get lost there). i had to pay 200 syrian pound for exiting syria. for the rest it was straight forward.

places to stay

damascus: don't go to the al haramain hotel! it's a beautiful house, but they treated me and other travellers like dogs. reservations don't work and you might be put up on the terracce where you're expected to sleep pillow to pillow with your neigbor - stretch and you grab into the other's face.
when i complained about missing pieces of laundry i was accused of trying to cheat my way out of paying for the bill...

other